A Break From Reality
By Riane Nesper, a San Clemente California native that visited Mizata in December, 2019. A break from reality. Pulling out of the rat race. Getting off the treadmill. You never...
February 19, 2020
Here’s a capture from one of our all-time epic guests, Ross Cauvel.
Long Points and Jello Legs
I’m an intermediate surfer at best. Born and bred on the East Coast, I cut my teeth in Ocean City, New Jersey. I drooled over watching Rob Kelly and Sam Hammer shred the peaks down the way. I shot shaky camcorder footage in ‘99 of Rob destroying—alone—one of the longest rides of anyone in town.
That moment—seeing Rob extend a wave so much further than I could—I knew I wanted that feeling.
That’s why I get so amped to head down to El Salvador. The place is a training ground. Without it, I’d still be a feeble kook, flopping around, getting pitched over the falls, and pulling back on waves I should go on (which I still do).
A lot of guys are tube guys. Not me. I like to throw as much spray as possible. Spray the shit out of everything is what I live by. Basically, my goal in life is to get my board to 12:00 and throw buckets. I know that sounds retro or mechanical to guys who’ve done it a million times—but I haven’t, so that’s the vibe I chase.
Don’t get me wrong, Mizata offers nice tubes. It’s easy to dip into a nice cover up on the smaller days with an outgoing tide. But rarely does someone thread a big one. Will you, my dear reader, be that lucky guy or gal?
I like the point wave at Mizata because it’s steeper and has more power than other points around. It’s actually easier to do more critical maneuvers than on weaker waves. I salivate to throw my full weight and torque into my snaps and carves all the way down the line. Airdrop back in. It’s freaking mental.
I also go down there for the food, comfy beds, chill crowd, and to practice Spanish with the locals. I also love shooting photos of surfers and the area (check my insta: @SessionStories), blah, blah, blah.
I took physics classes in college. I believe the equation for fun is the same as the equation for momentum. (Taylor Steele knew this; that’s why he named his big breakout film Momentum.)
Momentum = Mass x Velocity
Add that to the equation for Centripetal Force. Centripetal Force is the feeling when you torque out your turns to the max.
Force(fun) = Mass * (Velocity2 / Radius)
I’ll translate that for you. It means to go into a turn with as much speed as possible and create the tightest arc and it’s the funnest shit ever(which you can never do in snowboarding, by the way—the turning radius isn’t as tight). It’s quite literally the equation for fun. Science, my dudes! (Sorry to nerd out on ya.)
Maybe I’ll see you down there, and I can shoot photos of you too (which I do for cervezas and high fives). I love to shoot from both the water and land. I also have plans for an improved camera housing, specifically to capture point breaks. You can be my guinea pig, I hope! There’s also a sick local photographer named Daniel who’ll snap your shots as well.
Till then, I’ll be dreaming of that next perfect equation to make a lip explode.
Caption: Eric Imsland at the Point.
Caption: Eric Imsland bottom turn clinic.
Caption: Eric Imsland laying into a tasty section.
Caption: Ross, the author aka Session Stories, looking for that fun equation.
Caption: Eric Imsland finding a long boi.